May Birthstone: Emerald - Complete Guide [2025]

Born in May? Your birthstone is emerald, a gemstone celebrated for its vivid green color, ancient symbolism, and unmistakable presence. More than any other gem, emerald combines elegance with mystery. Its unique formation process gives it characteristics unlike any other birthstone. Before exploring origins, value, and quality factors, here’s what sets emerald apart and why it has fascinated civilizations for over 4,000 years.

In traditional gemology, only four stones hold the title of “precious gemstones”: diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald. This classification isn’t marketing it reflects centuries of rarity, cultural significance, and consistently high market value.

Emerald holds a unique place within this group. These four gems dominate fine jewelry, command the highest per-carat prices, and carry unmatched global recognition. Yet emerald stands apart for one unusual reason:

It is the only precious gemstone where visible inclusions do not diminish value.

A diamond with visible inclusions is considered commercial grade. A sapphire or ruby with obvious inclusions loses desirability. But in emeralds, inclusions, known as jardin, or “garden”, are not only accepted, they are embraced. Collectors view them as proof of natural origin and part of the gem’s identity.

This paradox is one of the reasons emerald remains so captivating. No other precious stone balances such extraordinary beauty with such distinctive natural character.

Emerald symbolizes renewal, growth, and prosperity, attributes naturally linked to May's spring season. The gemstone's vibrant green evokes new life, making emerald a symbolic representation of rebirth and fresh beginnings.

Emerald serves as the traditional 20th and 35th wedding anniversary gemstone, symbolizing enduring love and relationship growth. As one of the Big Four precious stones alongside diamond, ruby, and sapphire, emerald also represents prestige, refined taste, and lasting value.

Emerald belongs to the beryl family, the same mineral group as aquamarine and morganite. What sets emerald apart is the presence of chromium or vanadium, which give the gemstone its unmistakable green color.

Durability: Strong, With a Few Sensitivities

With a hardness of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, emerald is durable enough for everyday jewelry. It isn’t as hard as sapphire or diamond, but in a protective setting it performs very well in rings, pendants, and earrings.

Because emeralds naturally contain internal features (inclusions), they can be more sensitive to sharp blows or sudden temperature shifts. Still, countless people wear emerald engagement rings daily without issues. The key is simple: choose a secure setting and avoid activities that could damage any fine gemstone.

Jardin: The Feature That Defines Emerald

One of emerald’s most distinctive traits is its jardin, the French word for “garden.” Up close, you’ll see tiny crystals, wisps, or patterns inside the stone, almost like a miniature landscape.

Here’s what makes emerald unique among precious stones:

Its inclusions are not considered flaws. They’re part of the emerald’s identity.

No two jardons are identical, which makes each emerald as individual as a fingerprint.

Quick clarity rules:

• Internal inclusions that don’t reach the surface are normal and stable.

• Surface-reaching fractures are the ones jewelers monitor, because they can affect durability.

• Truly clean emeralds are exceptionally rare and often cost two to three times more. In those cases, you’re paying for rarity more than visible perfection.

Emerald jewelry isn’t fragile, it’s simply particular. Think of it like cashmere: beautiful and durable, but happier with gentle care than rough treatment.

What to Avoid (These Damage Emeralds)

Thermal shock

Emeralds don’t handle sudden temperature changes well. Moving from hot water to cold air can cause internal fractures to expand. Remove emerald rings before dishwashing, showering, cooking over steam, or intense exercise.

Chlorine exposure

Chlorine can damage the cedar oil used in 90–95% of emeralds, leading to permanent cloudiness. Avoid pools, hot tubs, and cleaning products containing chlorine. Brief handwashing is fine.

Ultrasonic cleaners

Ultrasonic and steam cleaners that work for diamonds can crack emeralds. Vibrations and heat amplify natural fractures.

How to Care for Emeralds (Safe Practices)

Cleaning

• Use lukewarm water + a drop of mild, pH-neutral soap

• Gently brush with a soft toothbrush

• Rinse with water at the same temperature

• Pat dry with a lint-free cloth (avoid air-drying, which can leave spots)

Storage

Store emerald jewelry separately from harder stones like diamonds or sapphires. A fabric-lined box or individual pouch prevents scratching.

Professional Check-Ups

Have prongs and settings inspected annually. Cedar oil treatments may need refreshing every 2–5 years; this must be done professionally.

Emerald Origins and Why They Matter

Geographic origin is one of the strongest price factors in emeralds. Among all sources, Colombia sets the global benchmark, commanding meaningful premiums for equivalent color and clarity.

Colombia — The Gold Standard

Colombia produces the majority of the world’s emerald supply (70–90%). Three major mines define Colombian emerald identity:

• Muzo – The legendary “Muzo green,” a deep, slightly bluish pure green considered the finest in the world

• Chivor – Slightly yellow-green tones, historically important since the 1500s

• Coscuez – Medium green material in larger commercial quantities

Why Colombian stones cost more

The Colombian premium (often 20–50%) isn’t hype , it’s rooted in geology and history:

1. Unique geology

Colombian emeralds form in sedimentary host rock through hydrothermal fluids. Most other sources (Zambia, Brazil) form in metamorphic schist.

This difference produces clean, vivid greens that lack the gray or strong blue modifiers more common elsewhere.

2. Color intensity

“Muzo green” remains the reference point for ideal emerald color: pure, vibrant, and slightly bluish without turning teal.

3. Five centuries of prestige

Since the 16th century, Colombian emeralds have appeared in royal regalia across Europe and South America. Historic pieces like the Crown of the Andes shaped emerald mythology and demand.

Other Important Emerald Sources

Zambia

• Second-largest global producer

• Often slightly bluish-green

• Typically fewer inclusions than Colombian stones

• Strong value: similar look at a lower price

Brazil

• Wide range from pale green to medium saturation

• Ideal entry-level emeralds

• Vivid color is less common

Afghanistan (Panjshir Valley)

• Produces small quantities with color rivaling fine Colombian stones

• Political instability limits supply

• Rarely seen in mainstream retail

Ethiopia

• Newer source (post-2016)

• Quality varies but shows strong potential

• Still developing a market identity

Emerald pricing reflects a complex interplay of color intensity, clarity relative to type, origin, treatment disclosure, and carat weight. Unlike diamonds with standardized pricing, emerald markets require gemological expertise for accurate valuation.

Price Ranges by Quality

Colombian vs Zambian Emerald Pricing

Colombian emeralds command 20-50% premiums over equivalent Zambian stones. This comparison shows the price difference across quality grades:

Clarity Impact on Emerald Pricing

Unlike diamonds where clarity significantly affects price, emerald's acceptance of inclusions creates different pricing dynamics:

Selecting emerald jewelry means balancing beauty with durability. Because emeralds naturally contain inclusions, the right setting and cut play a major role in long-term wearability.

Setting Protection

Emeralds are durable enough for daily wear, but their internal features make them more vulnerable at the edges. Protective settings are especially important for rings:

• Bezel settings (metal surrounding the entire stone) provide the strongest protection and reduce the risk of corner or edge damage.

• Halo settings add a layer of surrounding stones and metal, giving extra structural support while enhancing appearance.

• Prong settings can work, but they leave edges more exposed and are better for earrings or pendants rather than daily-wear rings.

The Emerald Cut

The emerald cut was developed specifically for this gemstone. Its long step-cut facets and trimmed corners:

• reduce pressure on the stone’s most vulnerable points

• emphasize color saturation

• reveal transparency and the natural jardin, helping buyers judge quality honestly

The emerald cut doesn’t hide inclusions—it celebrates the stone’s natural character.

Buying an emerald without certification is like buying a house without an inspection. You might get lucky, but the risk is unnecessary. For any emerald purchase over $1,000, insist on a report from a respected laboratory such as GIA, AGL, Gübelin, or SSEF.

A proper certificate gives you critical information:

Natural or Synthetic

Lab-grown emeralds are chemically real emeralds, but they cost 60–80 percent less. If you are paying natural-stone pricing, certification confirms you are not unknowingly buying a synthetic stone.

Geographic Origin

Colombian emeralds command 20–50 percent premiums. A seller claiming “Colombian origin” should be able to prove it. Certification verifies or disproves the claim, removing guesswork.

Treatment Level

This is the most important disclosure. Certification reveals whether the emerald has been enhanced with oil or resin, and to what degree: insignificant, minor, moderate, or significant. Significant enhancement reduces value by 30–50 percent compared to a lightly treated stone of equal color. Without documentation, you won’t know what you are actually paying for.

Weight and Measurements

Certification confirms the exact carat weight and dimensions. It sounds simple, but misrepresentation happens more often than people expect.

Emerald Treatment: What You Must Know

Around 90–95 percent of emeralds receive clarity enhancement with oil or resin. This is standard in the industry and nothing to fear. What matters is how much treatment the stone received.

GIA and other labs classify enhancement into levels:

• F1 (minor/insignificant)

• F2 (moderate)

• F3 (significant)

These distinctions affect value enormously. A stone with significant treatment should cost dramatically less than a lightly treated stone with similar color and clarity. If treatment is not disclosed, you may be overpaying.

Treatment itself is not the problem.

Undisclosed treatment at full price is.

Certification protects you from that.

Selecting an emerald means balancing color, clarity, origin, treatment, durability, and budget. This simplified framework helps you choose correctly based on your purpose.

For Engagement Rings (Daily Wear)

Emeralds can be worn daily, but only with the right design choices.

Priorities

1. Protective setting such as bezel or halo

2. Good color saturation (doesn’t need to be the absolute finest)

3. SI clarity or better; visible inclusions are normal, but avoid fractures that reach the surface

4. Origin value: Zambian emeralds offer reliable color and durability at good prices

Budget suggestion

Allocate about 60% to the setting for protection and 40% to the stone.

For Special Occasion Jewelry

When the piece isn’t worn daily, you can prioritize aesthetics.

Priorities

1. Vivid green color

2. Origin certification if your budget allows, especially for Colombian stones

3. Minimal eye-visible inclusions (VS to SI clarity)

4. Setting style can prioritize beauty over maximum protection

Budget suggestion

Roughly 75% toward the gemstone, 25% toward the setting.

For Investment or Collecting

Here, you focus on rarity and documentation.

Priorities

1. Origin certification, with Colombian (especially Muzo) preferred

2. Untreated or minimally treated stones

3. Size of 3 carats and above, where price jumps significantly

4. High clarity, ideally VS or better

5. Top-tier labs such as GIA, Gübelin, or SSEF for verification

Price expectations

Fine investment-grade emeralds often range from $5,000 to $18,000+ per carat.

Red Flags to Avoid

• No treatment disclosure

• Emeralds advertised as natural but actually synthetic

• Suspiciously low pricing (a “fine” 2 ct Colombian emerald for $500 is not real)

• Premium stones without certification

• Sellers refusing returns or independent evaluations

Smart Questions to Ask

• What treatment has this emerald received, and to what extent?

• Can you provide origin certification from a reputable lab?

• What is your return policy if I get a third-party appraisal?

• Is this emerald suitable for daily wear in a ring?

• Which setting style best protects this stone long-term?